We Asked a Dermatologist if It’s Safe to Use Retinol When You Don’t Have Acne

Prescription retinoids, like tretinoin, are topical vitamin A products used to reduce acne, unclog pores, and treat fine lines. Many skin care enthusiasts use retinol, a weaker over-the-counter retinoid product, to reduce wrinkles and other signs of aging.

We asked Dina D. Strachan, MD, board-certified dermatologist and owner of Aglow Dermatology in New York, if it’s safe to use retinol when you don’t have acne.

*This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.

Q: Is it safe to use retinol even if I don’t have acne? What other benefits can I get from using retinol?

Strachan: Absolutely, it has other benefits besides acne, so not having acne doesn’t affect safety. Many people use it to combat aging, hyperpigmentation and a smoother complexion.

Retinols belong to the retinoid category, but they are weaker. I generally don’t worry about a retinol being too strong because, by definition, it’s not as strong as retinoids. This is why you can buy retinols over the counter.

However, it is important to know how to use an over-the-counter product safely. Although the active ingredient is safe and effective, you should not use it if you are pregnant or have underlying skin conditions. You may also experience problems if you have eczema on your face, decide to wax, or use too many exfoliating products.

Should I be worried about purging (breakouts) or irritation from the retinol?

Retinoids and retinols can dry out the skin and cause irritation. I think it’s more of an urban legend that it actually causes acne, but if your skin becomes dry and irritated, your acne can break out. When I give people retinoids, I recommend they moisturize twice a day. Use a moisturizer with sunscreen during the day and regular moisturizer at night.

You can use these products daily, but stop if your skin becomes too dry or irritated. Do not use scrubs or anything abrasive on your face. You should also let people know if you are using them before undergoing any procedure, including waxing.

Some people combine other products, like glycolic acid, with retinols, but I think they are more likely to get irritated by using multiple weak products rather than just using one strong product and moisturizer.

Are retinols safe for all skin tones?

In general, retinols are a great choice for people with darker skin, as they tend to suffer from hyperpigmentation due to acne and are more likely to have melasma or dark spots.

If these products cause skin irritation in people with darker skin, they may develop post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. But, in general, retinoids can help with both hyperpigmentation and melasma.

I think almost everyone can benefit from them because they are good for the skin. Remember that these can dry out your skin and there are different concentrations. Consider any underlying medical conditions before using these products.