Think you know Italian wedding soup? This is the version Italians actually serve
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Why it works
- A pressure cooker significantly speeds up the cooking of tough cuts like beef chuck while still developing a rich broth.
- Cooking the greens in a flavorful blend of olive oil, pancetta, garlic and fresh chili peppers gives them deep flavor.
Meet him real Italian wedding soup, or minestra maritata, as it is called in Naples, where it originated. This soup has very little in common with its Italian-American descendant, except that they both “marry” meat broths with green vegetables. It’s true, these soups have nothing to do with real weddings.
Serious eating / Amanda Suarez
I decided to develop this recipe while working on a simpler Americanized version of wedding soup, made with meatballs, both because I wanted readers to learn more about the origin of today’s popular wedding soup and also because I think it is the most beautiful soup. It’s a soulful blend of a wide variety of meats, fresh and cured – beef, pork, chicken, various salumi, prosciutto – that are cooked until tender in a broth with a depth of meatiness unlike almost any other. The green vegetables, on the other hand, are also cooked until they give completely; there’s not a trace of crisp, tender freshness here. No, this is yet another example of Italian cooking showing how delicious overcooked vegetables can be.
Serious eating / Amanda Suarez
Recipes for this soup vary of course, but one of the biggest differences I’ve noticed is how the greens are handled. In some homes they are thrown into a pot of water or broth and simmered until tender. It’s good, but it’s not as good as the other method I’ve seen, in which the greens are sauteed then braised in a fatty slick of olive oil and melted pancetta or lardo lard, lots of garlic and a fresh red chili pepper. It’s quite a spectacle and a treat for the nose while cooking.
The greens themselves are just as much of a mix as the meats, and you should try to get your hands on as many bitter, hardy leafy greens as possible: escarole, dandelion, chicory, Napa cabbage, kale, Swiss chard, broccoli rabe, etc.
Serious eating / Amanda Suarez
The marriage happens in the bowl, when brothy meats are ladled onto a rich pile of glistening greens, all melted and spoon-tender. Also in the bowl are some garlic toast and, on top, a generous shower of funky grated pecorino. Take a bite and know in your marrow that no matter who cooked it, mom still loves you.
Serious eating / Amanda Suarez
Think you know Italian wedding soup? This is the version Italians actually serve
Cooking method
(Keep screen awake)
For the meats and broth:
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1 book (454 g) boneless beef chuck
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3/4 book (340 g) pork ribs
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2 with bone, with skin chicken thighs (about 3/4 book; 340 g total)
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8 ounces (225 g) prosciutto trims/ends (see notes)
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6 ounces (170 g) spicy salami or sopressata (whole, unsliced)
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6 ounces (170 g) sweet salami or other dry-cured pork sausage (whole, unsliced)
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2 AVERAGE red onions (8 ounces; 225 g each), reduced by half
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1 AVERAGE carrot (3 ounces; 85 g)
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1 big celery side (3 ounces; 85 g)
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3 big strands flat-leaf parsley
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2 links fresh italian sausage (8 ounces; 225 g total)
For the Greens:
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2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil
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1/4 book (113 g) lard Or pancettadiced
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5 medium cloves garlicslice
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1 fresh red pepperlike a Fresnohulled and thinly sliced
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2 books (900 g) mixed bitter greenssuch as escarole, dandelion, broccoli rabe, Swiss chard, Tuscan kale, Napa kale and/or chicory, trimmed and very well washed of sand and gravel
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Kosher salt
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Slices of grilled country bread rubbed with garlicto serve (see notes)
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Grated Pecorino Romanoto serve
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For the meats and broth: In a pressure cooker, combine the beef chuck, pork ribs, chicken thighs, prosciutto trimmings, spicy salami, sweet salami, red onions, carrot, celery and parsley. Cover with cold water (make sure the water does not exceed the maximum fill line in the pressure cooker). Place on high pressure and pressure cook for 25 minutes. Allow to depressurize naturally.
Alternatively, meats and vegetables can be simmered in a large pot or Dutch oven until the meats are tender, about 3 hours.
Serious eating / Amanda Suarez
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When the cooker is depressurized, open the lid, add the fresh sausages and poach until cooked through, about 5 minutes.
Serious eating / Amanda Suarez
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Transfer the meats to a work surface and let cool slightly. Throw in the onions, carrots, celery and parsley. Grate and/or cut meats into serving-sized pieces, discarding bones as you go. Skim the fat accumulated on the surface of the broth, then return the meats to the broth. Season the broth with salt only if necessary.
Serious eating / Amanda Suarez
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For the Greens: In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat with the lardo or pancetta, garlic and chili pepper. Cook, stirring, until the pork fat is largely rendered and the pork is lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Working in batches to avoid overcrowding the pan, add the greens, stirring and letting them wilt between additions (covering the pan can help trap the steam and wilt the greens more quickly), until all the greens have been added and cook until very tender and a dull green color, about 25 minutes.
Serious eating / Amanda Suarez
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Once the greens are cooked through and much of their water has evaporated, let them fry gently in the melted fat for a few minutes, wetting them with small additions of liquid meat stock to prevent excessive browning and drying. Season greens with salt only if they need it.
Serious eating / Amanda Suarez
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When ready to serve, arrange the toasts in serving bowls. Top with a generous portion of cooked green vegetables, then pour the broth and pieces of meat on top. Sprinkle with Pecorino Romano and serve.
Serious eating / Amanda Suarez
Remarks
You can often purchase prosciutto ends and trimmings at a deli counter or specialty store that sells sliced-to-order prosciutto.
To make the toast, drizzle slices of rustic country bread with olive oil, then toast them until golden brown. Rub each slice with a cut raw garlic clove to infuse the garlic flavor.
Special equipment
Pressure cooker (like an Instant Pot) or large Dutch oven or soup pot.
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