The thirst of the world for tea swallows world supplies

Business Reporter, BBC News

Matcha mania sweeps the world. Long green Japanese tea is in everything, Starbucks slats in the United Kingdom with Krispy Kreme donuts in Singapore.
The global craze of matcha is motivated by social media, with influencers sharing advice, criticism and revenues. The hashtag “Matcha tok” recorded tens of millions of views.
Matcha’s growing popularity is also linked to Japan’s post-country tourist boom, the country’s short currency, making it an attractive destination as well as the demand for Japanese products.
In the middle of the media, the demand for powder soar. The importer of tea based in the United States Lauren Purvis tells the BBC that his customers see what was once a month of matcha to exhaust in days.
“Some cafes even require one kilo a day. They are desperate to follow,” explains Ms. Purvis, who directs Mizuba Tea Co.
But this growing demand, combined with smaller tea crops due to heat waves and American prices on Japan, is also Push matcha prices.

Traditionally, Matcha – which is sought after for its health benefits, caffeine and flavor – is the product of a secular and highly specialized process.
It is made from green tea leaves called Tencha, which are kept in the shade for weeks while they still grow. This step is crucial to developing the “umami” flavor signature of tea – a tasty taste that completes its natural sweetness.
The leaves are harvested, dried And ground powder using stone mills, which can produce only 40 g (1.4 oz) of matcha per hour.
But in recent months, producers have had trouble, because record heat has reached crops.
In the Kyoto region, where about a quarter of the Japan tencha come, the hot weather has led to bad harvests even as the demand rises.
The country also faces a shortage of farmers as its population ages and not enough young people who go to the industry.
The stores in Uji, a city of Kyoto famous for Matcha, often see their shelves emptied by tourists as soon as their doors open.
Consequently, many retailers have set limits on the amount of customers.
The Camellia tea ceremony based in Kyoto allows customers to buy a single box of Matcha each, because the visitors’ numbers have doubled in the past year, said director Atsuko Mori.
The master of tea Rie Takeda says that she too must closely monitor its Matcha stocks, as orders that would arrive before in a few days can now take more than a week.
She works for Chazen, a tea ceremonial chain based in Tokyo, which hosts traditional rituals serving matcha for guests.
The shortages mean tea prices in Chazen points of sale increased by around 30% this year.
“”[The demand] is good, “said Ms. Takeda through a translator.” It is a bridge for more people to know Japanese culture. “”
He also attracted more producers.
Matcha production almost tripled between 2010 and 2023, according to the Agricultural Ministry of Japan.
He also indicates that green tea exports, including matcha, also increased 25% last year to 36.4 billion yen (180 million pounds sterling; $ 250 million).
Savor, not cash flow
The craze of Matcha sparked a movement to promote more conscious consumption.
Defenders call people they consider matcha or the benefit of their popularity. Others urge tea drinkers to pay attention to what they use and savor matcha in its purest form rather than an ingredient in recipes.
It is “a little sad” to see the high quality matcha used in the kitchen – where its delicate flavor is often lost – or stored for resale, said Ms. Mori.
“Matcha is the highest level of tea and it’s so special for us. So there is a little contradiction when I hear stories about how it is sold or used in food.”

The Global Japanese Tea Association encourages people to use a lower quality matcha from subsequent harvests, which is more abundant and better suited to the kitchen.
High quality matcha often loses its delicate flavor when used in drinks like slats, he adds.
“The promotion of awareness of these distinctions helps to ensure that Japanese tea is appreciated with respect, while supporting crafts and tradition behind it,” explains the association.
He also indicates that matcha prices should increase more due to the rates that the United States imposes in Japan.
Tuesday, Washington and Tokyo announced a commercial agreement which will mean a 15% import tax on Japanese products enter the United States.
Matcha distributors and MS Purvis are preparing for the impact. The Oregon based entrepreneur claims that the orders increased by more than 70% in early July before a deadline for both countries to conclude a trade agreement.
“As Japanese tea is not cultivated in the United States, there is no threatened American industry that prices must protect,” she said. “We hope there will be an awareness that specialized tea should be exempt.”
Even if the arrow demand and limited supplies raise prices, there is a certain light on the horizon.
At least one Matcha cafes chain thinks prices could facilitate the future – but not for a while.
“Low quality matcha is sold at a high price, and we believe that it will no longer be a viable business,” Mashairo Tokyo, co-founder.
“There is a boom right now and the request is increasing quickly, but we think it will calm down a bit in two to three years.”