Skip the drippings: This foolproof gravy method will save your Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving always starts off pretty calmly. The kitchen is still quiet, the list seems manageable, and you’re convinced that this is the year everything goes according to plan. Then the day arrives and chaos breaks out. Every burner is claimed, griddles are stacked like pieces of Jenga on the kitchen counter, mixing bowls are all dirty at once, and someone asks where the potato masher is when you barely know where anything is.

In the midst of chaos, the last thing you should do is rush to make a sauce – desperately scraping up any drippings that may or may not be there, and sweating over a pan, whisk in hand. Best case scenario, you get a few spoonfuls. Worst case scenario, you get a murmur of drippings and zero sauce potential. And trying to stretch those meager drippings with store-bought stock at the last minute results in a diluted sauce that lacks depth and flavor.

That’s why I’m firmly a part of Team Make-Ahead Gravy. I refuse to rely on meager pan drippings and last-minute scrambled gravy for one of the most essential elements of the Thanksgiving table. Plus, making the gravy ahead of time without relying on the drippings from the roast turkey takes one more task off your hands on turkey day, and it tastes exponentially better.

The problem with making sauce from drippings

There are two main problems with using cooking juices to make sauce:

• Little cooking juice = weak sauce: A turkey simply doesn’t produce enough drippings to make a big pot of rich gravy for a crowd. In fact, the average roast turkey produces only a few tablespoons of fat and less than 2 cups of liquid, which is nowhere near enough for the nearly 4 cups of sauce you actually need for a full table of guests. When you try to stretch that small amount with stock at the last minute, you inevitably dilute the turkey’s flavor and end up with a thinner, less satisfying gravy.
• Stress factor: Trying to frantically whisk, reduce, and season sauce while guests hover and sides demand attention is just too stressful for anyone to remain calm in the moment.

The make-ahead sauce solution

Luckily, there are two great make-ahead options that will make your life easier and improve your sauce.

Option 1: Make a Sauce from Scratch

This is where you build flavor from the ground up – or rather, from the ground up. Once your turkey is thawed and you prepare it for a dry brine (yes, you should do this too), remove the neck and gizzard bag hidden inside the cavity. Roast the turkey neck and gizzards in a large skillet. If you don’t have these parts available, do like me and use a family pack of 4-5 pound chicken wings: they provide lots of flavor and collagen. Then add the onion, carrot and celery to the pan with the turkey pieces and let everything caramelize well.

Pour in the chicken broth, add herbs and a bay leaf or two and, if you like, a little soy sauce and a tiny bit of marmite, as Kenji suggests in his turkey gravy recipe: they melt into the broth, adding subtle depth and flavor. Let the broth simmer gently until it becomes full-bodied and flavorful. And if you want more body, add some chicken feet while the broth simmers: they’re exceptionally rich in collagen, which further enriches the finished sauce and gives it an ultra-silky texture.

Once you strain that broth, you’ll have a rich gravy base that already beats anything you’d get from chasing some turkey juices into the pan. At this point, you can refrigerate or freeze the broth until you are ready to make the sauce, or you can make the sauce and refrigerate or freeze it.

When you’re ready to make the sauce, whisk the stock (thawed first in the refrigerator if frozen) into a roux until it thickens to form a smooth, spoon-coated sauce. At this point you can use it immediately, refrigerate or freeze it.

It will retain its texture and flavor, and all it needs before serving is gentle reheating and a little stock if it’s too thickened.

Option 2: Make Sauce Almost From Scratch

If roasting turkey pieces or chicken wings ahead of time seems like too much work for the gravy, you can still make a great gravy using good quality, store-bought, low-sodium or no-salt added chicken stock or broth. It will taste much better than any prepackaged turkey gravy mix, and it offers much more flavor than a gravy made by stretching some drippings with stock, as long as you make sure to toss the turkey neck and gizzards that come with the bird into your pot.

To do this, start by simmering a store-bought broth with the turkey neck and gizzards for about an hour to an hour and a half, until the collagen and connective tissue break down, enriching the broth and giving the sauce a silky texture. Again, a small amount of soy sauce and Marmite adds a flavorful backbone: about 1 teaspoon of soy sauce and 1/4 teaspoon of Marmite per 1 1/2 quarts of broth is enough to round out the flavor. Drain the broth, then make a roux and whisk in the lukewarm liquid. Simmer until the roux is completely cooked and the sauce reaches the desired consistency, then adjust the seasoning.

This sauce also keeps well if made in advance. Reheat gently, diluting with a little broth if necessary, and that’s it.

If you like turkey gravy, don’t let it go

I’m not here to convince you to give up your turkey gravy. They’ve spent hours slowly developing—fatty, concentrated juices, and browned bits forming at the bottom of the pan—and there’s no reason to ignore that flavor. But instead of relying on them to start your sauce, use them to boost the finishing flavor. When the turkey comes out, pour a little stock or water into the hot roasting pan, scrape up any browned bits and drain. Let the mixture sit for a few minutes so that the fat can separate from the liquid. Skim off the fat and discard it or save it for another use. Stir this turkey liquid into your pre-prepared gravy just before serving and let it reduce briefly if necessary.

How to Store Make-Ahead Sauce

One of the best parts about making a sauce ahead of time is that it freezes well, reheats easily, and allows you to focus on everything else. do must arrive at the last minute.

The sauce will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to five days. Reheat gently on the stovetop over low heat, whisking occasionally, or in the microwave in short bursts, stirring between each to heat evenly and prevent a skin from forming. If it becomes tight, dilute it with broth or water; if it is thinner than you would like, simmer briefly or add a small slurry of cornstarch while whisking. And if a few lumps appear, simply strain the sauce.

For even longer storage, freeze the completely cooled sauce in a freezer-safe container for up to three months. Thaw it in the refrigerator overnight, then gently reheat it, whisking as necessary to bring it together. Adjust the consistency as you would a fresh sauce.

Move forward and move forward. You’ll get better gravy and one less thing grabbing your attention, proving that there’s absolutely no reason to make gravy on Thanksgiving.