Hummus B’Tahini Recipe (tahini hummus)

For such a humble and simple dish, hummus has inspired an impressive and complex battle of opinions. From texture and flavor to cooking techniques, everyone seems to think there is a best or right way to prepare hummus. While there are some guiding principles to keep in mind (more on that below), how you prepare the spread ultimately comes down to your personal preference. Silky hummus is a triumphant treat. But if we start fussing over the level of sweetness and fussing to the point of swearing never to make hummus again unless we painstakingly peel each chickpea, then we’re missing the whole point of this dish: transforming a humble ingredient into a delicious, fulfilling dish.

The origins of hummus

“Hummus” is the Arabic word for chickpea. Although the word has become synonymous with the chickpea and tahini dip of the same name, the full Arabic designation for this particular spread is hummus b’tahini. Simply translated, the term means tahini hummus, which is made from two main components: tahini and chickpeas.

Tahini

Tahini is made from just one ingredient: ground sesame seeds. It can be made from hulled, unroasted seeds for a light, mild flavor, or hulled and roasted seeds for a nuttier taste. Some also prepare hummus with unshelled seeds (roasted or not), with a similar taste but with a pleasant hint of bitterness. All of these work well in hummus, although most of what you find commercially around the world is the hulled and roasted variety. But if you ever visit a tahini grinder or specialty store, the best way to discover your preferences is to taste and experiment.

Sesame seeds are one of the oldest known oilseed crops, with possible origins in Africa or Asia. One of the first references to tahini dates back to the 10th century, where it was described as “tahin al simsim”, or sesame paste, in the cookbook. Kitab al-Tabikh by the Arab author Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq, which contains recipes from what is now Baghdad. The term “tahini” comes from the Arabic word “tahhiniyya”, derived from the root verb “tahan”, meaning to grind or grind. (If my etymology lessons remind you of the father of My big Greek weddingyou are not alone, I have heard it several times!)

Most references in Kitab al-Tabikh use tahini as a spread on different breads, which can then be topped with cured or cured meats. Some recipes state that consuming tahini with honey or date syrup might help it pass through the digestive system faster – and that’s probably where the dish dibs wa tahini (tahini with dates or grape molasses) comes from. In the book, tahini is also found in baked goods. Today, tahini’s popularity is skyrocketing across the world, propelled by its esteemed place in Arabic cuisine, particularly in the Levant region, where it is featured in popular dishes like hummus and halaweh (halva).

Some consider Ethiopian sesame seeds to be the best because of the climate and nutrient-rich soil in which they are grown – a concept similar to the impact of terroir on the flavor of wine grapes. Having tasted tahini made from Ethiopian and other seeds, however, I find the emphasis on the origin of the seed to be overblown. The grinding process, degree of roasting, and freshness at purchase all significantly shape the flavor of tahini, sometimes more than the origin of the seed.

To ensure you get the freshest, highest quality tahini, always look at the production date and make sure there are no ingredients other than sesame on the list. I avoid anything with added oil, salt, emulsifiers, sugar and flavorings, which can negatively impact the flavor and texture of the dough. I prefer to buy Lebanese or Palestinian tahini, which can be found in most Middle Eastern grocery stores. Both tend to have great flavor and a smooth texture that isn’t too thick.

But even among good quality tahini, tasting is the only way to know which brand is truly best. You should be able to enjoy it like you would a spoonful of peanut butter. My personal test: it should taste pleasant on its own; there may be a hint of sweetness and there should be no bitter aftertaste or sour notes.

Chickpeas

The chickpea probably dates back to 10,000 BCE, when archaeological records show evidence of its domestication in the Fertile Crescent. It is apparently a finicky plant, and how it managed to spread to the Middle East, South Asia, Ethiopia and the western Mediterranean remains unclear.

At some point in history, someone thought of combining tahini and chickpeas. One of the earliest records of this story dates back to a 13th-century Syrian cookbook titled Al-Wusla ila al-Habib fi Wasf al-Tayyibat wal-Teeb, which culinary historian Charles Perry has since translated as Scents and flavors: a Syrian cookbook. The book contains a basic recipe for cooked and mashed fresh chickpeas, topped with a mixture of tahini and vinegar, then topped with crushed walnuts and lemon juice before finally being garnished with spices and herbs.

Tips for Making the Best Hummus

There are probably as many ways to prepare hummus as there are Arab families, and you should prepare it the way you like it. Although I believe there is no right or wrong way to prepare hummus, the recipe I offer here reflects my efforts to create the best hummus for myself. I experimented quite a bit: I made hummus with dried and canned beans; peeled and unpeeled chickpeas; just tahini or a combination of tahini and olive oil; with and without garlic and spices, the list goes on.

Although many are hesitant to prepare it at home because it involves pots, strainers, and a food processor, as well as the many parts that require cleaning, it is possible to enjoy fresh hummus regularly. I make hummus three times a week, right before sending my kids to school, and it takes me ten minutes or less. The secret? I use jarred chickpeas and skip the food processor and all its finicky parts. With the following tips, you too can prepare hummus whenever you want.

It is okay to use canned or jarred chickpeas

While there are some benefits to boiling your own chickpeas, you can still make great hummus with good quality jarred or canned chickpeas, so if having to cook your own chickpeas puts you off making hummus, it’s perfectly acceptable to skip this step. (Personally, I prefer the jarred variety to canned for its quality and texture, and also because it doesn’t have the metallic aftertaste that some canned products can have.)

If you’re making chickpeas from scratch, cook them properly

As for softness, that has less to do with peeling the chickpeas (a step recommended by some recipes) and more to do with how well the chickpeas are cooked and the equipment you use to blend them. If you’re starting with dried chickpeas and cooking them from scratch, adding baking soda to the cooking water helps the chickpeas cook and soften faster by changing the pH level and allowing the pectin in the skin to break down more effectively. For the silkiest chickpeas, be sure to cook them until they fall apart. (See my instructions for cooking dried chickpeas under the main recipe for complete instructions.)

Create smaller batches and skip the food processor

Some will tell you that a high-powered blender will make smoother hummus than a regular food processor, but blenders don’t work well if the consistency of the spread is too thick, and you may end up with hummus soup if you go that route. Some might choose to get around this by blending the chickpeas hot, but that’s not ideal either. Not only will your hummus stay longer in the food safety danger zone — 40 to 140°F or 4 to 60°C, the temperature at which harmful bacteria grow most quickly — but you also won’t be able to gauge its final texture, because hummus thickens considerably as it sits and cools.

Although some recipes call for grinding the chickpeas with just water and lemon juice in a blender to make them smooth and then simply blending in the tahini, this does not produce the same flavor or texture as you get by processing the tahini with chickpeas or, as is the traditional method, beating the tahini and chickpeas together.

Instead of relying on a food processor or high-speed blender, I make smaller batches, blending everything in a two- or four-cup glass measuring cup with my trusty immersion blender. Processing all the ingredients together emulsifies the ingredients and gives the hummus a more consistent texture and flavor. (It’s better when it’s fresh anyway.)

Experiment with flavors or keep it simple

Once you master this way of preparing the spread, fresh hummus will be available to you regularly with minimal effort and you can then focus on experimenting with flavors and preferences.

Some people like to use garlic in their hummus, but I don’t recommend incorporating garlic unless you consume the entire serving of hummus immediately, because garlic oxidizes quite quickly and its sulfuric compounds give the hummus a stronger, unpleasant aroma as the spread sits. Some use spices like cumin, others are purists. I like mine with a little lemon juice, salt and generous amounts of tahini.

In hummus shops in Jerusalem and some other Palestinian cities, vendors may top b’tahini hummus with a tangy sauce made of tahini, lemon juice, water and chopped parsley. It’s pretty, but I prefer my hummus without additions, because when it’s really good, nothing should distract from its flavor.

April 2024