Do you like creamed spinach? This version of kale is heartier and tastier
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Why it works
- Blanching the kale in generously salted water simultaneously softens and seasons the leaves.
- Drying the kale thoroughly after blanching prevents the sauce from being diluted and ensures that the cream adheres to each leaf.
- Stirring the cream cheese with the Parmesan enriches the sauce and adds a subtle flavor.
There’s a reason steakhouses always put creamed spinach on the menu: It’s silky, rich, and indulgent enough to stand up to a rib-eye, but green enough to make you feel like you’re eating a vegetable. But spinach doesn’t have to be the only green leaf worthy of a creamy spotlight. Kale, with its hearty leaves and earthy, slightly bitter flavor, works just as well. When properly softened, kale retains just enough structure to stay lively in the sauce, instead of disappearing into the cream like spinach sometimes does. Plus, its peppery flavor adds depth to the succulent sauce.
This recipe, developed by Marianne Williams in our Birmingham, Alabama test kitchen, aims to get the most out of kale. The process begins by blanching the kale in generously salted water, which softens the leaves while the salt penetrates and seasons them. Once cooled, carefully dried and chopped, it is then incorporated into a cream sauce enriched with butter, garlic, cream cheese and parmesan. The result is a dish reminiscent of the steakhouse classic, but bolder and heartier.
Serious Eating / Morgan Hunt Ward
3 Tips for Perfect Creamed Kale
Here are some tips to ensure your creamed kale tastes as good as the steakhouse sides that inspired it:
1. Boil to soften, but avoid cold shock: A salty boil softens the kale’s sturdy leaves and seasons them throughout. Unlike green beans or broccoli, you don’t need to submerge the leaves in ice water: Since kale is intended for a tangy cream sauce, you can let it cool in its own time.
2. First thicken the cream, then enrich: Reducing the cream before adding the butter, garlic and cheeses ensures a thick and velvety base. If you add the enrichments before letting the cream reduce, the sauce will be too thin to adhere to the greens properly.
3. Chop before folding: Once the kale is cooked and cooled, be sure to roughly chop it before combining it with the sauce. This ensures that the greens distribute smoothly throughout the sauce and makes the finished dish much easier (and more elegant) to eat.
The finished dish isn’t limited to steakhouse pairings. The mineral flavor and satiny creaminess of creamed kale make it equally good with roast chicken, pan-seared salmon, or even in a bowl of pasta. It’s a versatile side dish that slips easily into weeknight dinners and feels right at home on a holiday table.
This recipe was developed by Marianne Williams; The summary note was written by Laila Ibrahim.
Do you like creamed spinach? This version of kale is heartier and tastier
Cooking method
(Keep screen awake)
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1 1/2 books lacinato or kale (680 g; about 3 AVERAGE clusters), from
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2 tablespoonsmore 1 1/4 teaspoons (about 22 g) Diamond Crystal Kosher Saltsplit; for table salt, use half by volume
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1 tablespoon (15 ml) extra virgin olive oil
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1 big shallot (about 3 1/2 ounces; 100 g), finely chopped
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1 1/2 cups (360 ml) thick cream
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3 tablespoons (43 g) unsalted butter
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1 big garlic clovefinely grated
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2 ounces (57 g) cream cheesesoftened
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1 1/2 ounce (43 g) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 1/4 cup)
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1/4 cup (60 ml) water
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Bring a large pot of water and 2 tablespoons (18 g) kosher salt to a boil over high heat. Add the kale and cook, stirring occasionally, until bright green and tender, 6 to 7 minutes. Using tongs or a spider strainer, transfer the kale to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool until cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes. Working in batches, wrap the kale in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out excess liquid. Roughly chop the kale and set aside.
Serious Eating / Morgan Hunt Ward
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While the kale cools, heat the oil in a medium saucepan or high-sided skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring often, until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the cream and simmer over medium heat for about 1 minute. Cook, stirring frequently, until the cream thickens and reduces by about half, 8 to 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low. Add butter, garlic, and remaining 1 1/4 teaspoons (about 4 g) kosher salt. Cook, stirring constantly, until the butter is melted. Add the cream cheese and parmesan. Whisk until blended, about 2 minutes. Stir in the kale and cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through and evenly coated with the cream mixture, about 2 minutes. If necessary, gradually add up to 1/4 cup water to soften the mixture to the desired consistency. Remove from heat and serve immediately.
Serious Eating / Morgan Hunt Ward
Special equipment
Large saucepan, tongs or spider strainer, rimmed baking sheet, medium saucepan or high-end skillet
Storage prepared in advance
Creamed kale can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Reheat gently on the stove or in the microwave, adding a little cream if necessary to achieve the right consistency.
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