TThe first thing to understand about eating spicy foods is that it’s not really about taste. Capsaicin, the active chemical in capsicum plants that is a key ingredient in anything one might consider “spicy,” evolved as an irritant to prevent mammals from chewing and destroying the plants’ seeds. It acts on the nervous system directly via receptors in the tongue, throat and skin – without requiring taste buds – and, in theory, signals to our bodies that what we have just ingested should be eliminated as quickly as possible. The obvious question then is: why do some of us like this feeling so much?
To begin to understand this, it helps to know a little more about what happens in the body. “Think of an engineering brief where we need to detect irritants in a system and remove them quickly,” says Liam Browne, an associate professor at UCL specializing in the neuroscience of sensory perception and pain. “Capsaicin binds to a receptor in the body called TRPV1, which is found in a specialized class of neurons called nociceptors that typically detect things that are potentially harmful to the body.” When this happens, it’s as if a small fire alarm goes off and activates parts of the autonomic nervous system, which regulates various involuntary bodily functions without conscious control. “That’s what leads to all these physiological effects like tears, sweating or a runny nose,” says Browne. “It’s your body trying to get rid of the irritant.”
TRPV1 (pronounced trip-vee-one, if you’re explaining that to someone over a delicious curry) is also activated by other factors, like your body temperature rising above 42°C – the point where heat damages tissue – and piperine, the main active component in black pepper, which gives a much milder response. Other hot (but not exactly spicy) foods activate different receptors – mustard, wasabi and radishes are handled by TRPA1, while TRPM8 is mainly responsible for cold temperatures and menthol. “You can actually find other chemicals that have a much more potent effect than capsaicin on TRPV1,” says Browne. “There is a plant, Euphorbia resinifera, known as “resinous spurge” because of its associations with the idea of purging. It contains resiniferatoxin, a capsaicin-like compound that is often described as about 1,000 times more potent and is genuinely dangerous. “Yes, a YouTube creator tried it.
So how can we take advantage of all this? After all, this is not a recent development. The first evidence of chili pepper consumption dates back to around 7,000 BC in Mexico and Central America, with similar plants being cultivated around 1,000 years later. Peppers were only introduced to Europe around the 16th century, but have since grown in popularity: the global hot sauce market is expected to be worth $5bn (£3.8bn) by 2030, up from just over $3bn two years ago. WHO Really Does he like screaming irritants and drinking milk so much?
First, some people have different variants of the TRPV1 gene, which change how easily it turns on and off after activation (interestingly, the gene is present but insensitive to capsaicin in all birds and one species of tree shrew, allowing them to eat spicy seeds with impunity). But the receptors also become less sensitive over time, so it’s entirely possible to develop a relative immunity to moderately spicy foods — or to cultivate one deliberately.
As for why we like it, maybe it’s because of the sensation it causes. “Research continues into how the human brain learns what is safe and what is not, including what foods are safe to eat,” says Browne. “Recent work emphasizes prediction, context and controllability. The idea is that when you eat something spicy, you receive an initial ‘heat’ warning signal. With repeated exposure, the peripheral response becomes desensitized and the brain learns that the signal is safe and under control. This shift in prediction and certainty is a large part of why the experience becomes tolerable – and then rewarding. ” According to the theory, the more spices you eat, the less the first painful part becomes intense and the more relief you get after that.
“There’s also the idea of reappraisal, or the fact that through exposure and experience we reframe the meaning of what pain is and is actually safe for us,” says Browne. “This feeling of control and mastery is important – in addition to the social and cultural component of doing this with your family or friends. It’s the same logic as watching horror movies or riding roller coasters, sometimes called ‘benign masochism.’ can reduce its impact.” Like other initially unpleasant experiences—think running, cold showers, or hot saunas—persisting through the initial pain also prompts the body to release endorphins, turning those Korean chicken wings into a sort of light-hearted high.
But what if you’re invited out for some wings and you don’t feel up to it? The first thing to remember is that capsaicin is fat-soluble and hydrophobic: this means that if you drink water, it will stay where it is, while milk will dissolve the capsaicin and then attach to it, eventually washing it away.
Alcohol, in case you were wondering, can dilute capsaicin, but will not bind to it – and will only do its job if it is present in high percentages, meaning beer is unlikely to help. Yogurt, if you have a small pot nearby, will do the same job as milk – but there is an even tastier option. “Mint ice cream provides the fat and protein needed to break down capsaicin, but it will also trigger your TRPM8 receptors, which signal coolness and can alleviate TRPV1 ‘heat pain,'” says Browne.
Keep a tub handy the next time you invite people over for a jalfrezi – and remind everyone that this is a cultural ritual with deep historical resonances.
