Anyone who has accidentally stamped or chipped a freshly painted nail includes the attraction of the gel manicure. The procedure, in which the gel varnish is applied and then hardened under a lamp, results in a brilliant and durable manicure which lasts about two weeks.
But in September, the EU prohibited a key ingredient in gel nail polish called Trimethylbenzoyle Diphenylphosphine oxide, or TPO – making many people guess the safety of a gel manicure.
“There are certainly potential traps and dangers, but honestly, millions and millions of women in the world use gel nails and have no problems,” said Dr. Phoebe Rich, dermatologist in Portland, Oregon, who specializes in the prevention and treatment of nail disorders.
The key, according to experts, is to take some simple precautions. Before reserving your next frost manicure, here is what you need to know.
Understand the EU ban on TPO
TPO is a photoinator, which means that it begins the reaction that hardens the gel varnish and form a solid film on your nail. As of September 1, 2025, EU legislators prohibited its use, classifying it as a substance “toxic to reproduction” after several studies indicated reproductive toxicity effects in animals exposed to high levels of TPO.
But Kelly Dobos, aesthetic chemist at the University of Cincinnati, says that it is not necessary to panic.
Most research on the health effects of TPO has involved nourishing it to rodents or injecting it under their skin, she explains, and “this is not really that we are exposed to it in a nail gel”. In addition, she says: “Your systemic exposure is very low, because it has also reacted when you expose it to this light in the nail lamp.”
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Although Dobos maintains that TPO, as used in frost manicures, is safe, there are gel varnishes on the market that do not include the ingredient, she says. If you are worried, look for a varnish that uses different photos, like TPO-L, a modified form of TPO which remains legal in the EU
Protect yourself from UV exposure
The UV and LED lamps used to cure gel nail polish emit UV radiation, which has been linked to skin cancer and premature aging.
“But then again, most of the country is sitting outside without sunscreen,” said Dr. Michele Green, aesthetic dermatologist in New York.
Although UV exposure during a gel manicure is brief, it is concentrated and can add up over time. Green advises to follow the advice of the American Academy of Dermatology to apply a wide spectrum and water -resistant sunscreen on your fingers and the back of your hands before a gel manicure, or to wear a pair of opaque finger gloves.
“The two are very protective,” adds Rich. “And if nothing else, it prevents the hands from age.”
Application and withdrawal can cause damage
People who get regular freezing manicures can notice changes to their nails, such as slimming, cracking, weakening or white spots, explains Dr. April Schachtel, dermatologist with Uw Medicine in Seattle specializing in nail disease. “Many of these things that make him as attractive as a manicure option are also the things that damage the nail,” she said.
This includes both the elimination of the old gel varnish, which involves wrapping the fingers in cotton pads soaked in acetone and aluminum foil, and the nail surface preparation for the new layer, during which a technician can deposit or blur the nail with a mechanical forest.
“”There is no doubt that the 20 minutes of acetone are hard enough, mainly on your skin, but also on your nails, “explains Rich.” Then, using the drill after that to remove the additional bits that acetone leaves behind – all that damages the existing nail. »»
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And don’t even think about choosing the varnish yourself. “You take small pieces from the surface of the nail plate with that when you do this,” she warns.
“Once this nail is lit and damaged, There is nothing you can apply to bring it back to his normal health, “said Rich.” You have to wait for him to come back from the nail matrix “, which can take about six months.
To be very sure in the living room, says Dobos, ask to see the packaging of the frosty frostwill so that you can check its ingredients. Earlier this year, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has published a warning letter to several companies that still make gel varnish moves containing methylene chloride, a chemical which is classified as a “probable carcinogen” and prohibited in the United States
“If you are concerned about what they use, ask, because it is generally not right in front of you at the Manicure Salon,” she said.
Do not try this at home
In the years that followed the pandemic, the DIY manicure kits market exploded, says Schachtel. Although it can be cheaper and more practical to do your nails at home, an incorrect application can cause potential problems.
In most frost products, the main component is acrylates; These are monomers or oligomers, which are small molecules or chains of molecules and can present themselves in a thick liquid form. As the gel is hardened, the smallest molecules are linked together and turn into a polymer, but if unpribed acrylate monomers come into contact with the skin, they can trigger allergies in some people.
“It is more likely if you do it at home, because you are more likely to obtain the liquid on the skin or to have an imperfect technique to heal it,” explains Schachtel.
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An allergy to acrylate can present itself as painful nails and rashes on the fingers or the face. And because acrylates are also used in many important medical devices such as bandages, dental implants and bone topping and cement used in orthopedic surgery, “it’s an allergy that people really don’t want to have,” says Schachtel.
For the safest results, Rich advises to obtain your gel manicure in a famous and approved living room. “At home, it’s not as controlled,” she says. “There is a potential for more use and damage, and perhaps even more exposure to light.”
The bottom line
Many experts believe that gel manicures, overall, are generally at low risk indulgence, especially if you rarely get them and take precautions when you do.
“I’m not telling people never doing it,” says Schachtel. “But I think it’s something that should be done in moderation.”
