The alley of skin care overflows with serums, creams, lotions, gels and oils that promise to clean your skin and let it shine. A very popular ingredient in these products is retinol – which is often called “the golden stallion in skin care”. But does science support media threshing?
What is retinol?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A – a vitamin discovery for the first time in the retina of the eye, this is how retinol took its name.
Your body can do retinol alone by converting plant pigments like beta-carotene (which makes orange carrots) in vitamin A in the intestine. You can also get retinol by eating foods such as cheese, eggs and oily fish such as salmon.
But retinol in your treatment cream does not come from carrots or animal sources. It is generally made in a laboratory to create a form of vitamin that remains intact inside a pot and still works when applied to your skin.
“Its use in skin care, in particular to treat the signs of aging and damage caused by the sun, became more important about 20 years ago,” said Dr. Gregory S Keller, plastic surgeon at Keller Plastic Surgery in California.
You may also have heard of retinoids. These are chemically similar to retinol but stronger, which is why they are generally only available on a prescription (with the exception of adaptation – an over -the -counter retinoid which is approved by the FDA for acne treatment).
Does retinol work?
The evidence of over -the -counter retinol products are mixed. A review in 2021 of nine randomized double -blind trials – the gold stallion in clinical research – found that products containing retinol have shown little or no advantages compared to placebo formulations. The few studies that reported positive results had design defects: eight of the nine were funded by retinol products manufacturers, which raises biases.
But the prescription tentinoin, a stronger and faster version of retinol, has stronger evidence. An examination in 2022 of seven randomized controlled trials constantly revealed it wrinkles, pigmentation, skin and lentigines with a yellowish appearance (benign, brown, formal skin stains) from a month, with advantages that last up to two years.
Skin experts generally recommend retinol, but suggest managing expectations.
“I always tell my patients that retinol is one of the most effective over -the -counter ingredients to improve the texture of the skin, tone and overall clarity – but it is not a magic button of” impeccable skin “,” explains Dr. Hannah Kopelman, dermatologist at Dermondemand in New York. “I point out that it is a long -term investment in skin health, not a solution overnight.”
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Dermatologist Dr Ha Linh seen at Dermatology Partners in Philadelphia agrees. “The retinols available on the counter can help the size of pores, fine lines, discoloration and photoaging,” she says. “But these effects are subtle, require coherent use and will not be seen for several months of regular use.” Seen also underlines that over -the -counter retinol products have limited effects on deeper lines, pronounced discoloration, significant texture problems or moderate acne.
The results also depend on appropriate use, explains Kopelman. She explains that starting with a high -resistance retinol product “is a recipe for irritation, scales and redness”. This is why it recommends starting with a lower concentration – more than 0.25% or 0.3% – a few nights per week, then gradually increases to 0.5% as your skin adapts.
“The most important advice I give for a safe and effective use of retinol is to start low and go slowly,” says Kopelman. “Use a gentle cleaner, avoid hard scrubs or riding strong active ingredients in the same routine and moisturize well to minimize drought or irritation.”
How does retinol work?
“When we apply retinol to the skin, he undergoes a conversion into retinoic acid that binds to retinoic acid receptors in the skin,” said cosmetic chemist Leanne King. Retinoic acid accelerates the renewal of cells, the natural biological process where dead skin cells are lost from the surface of the skin and replaced by new, younger and healthier cells produced in the deeper layers. This helps to increase skin radiance, reduce pigmentation and prevent obstructed pores.
Retinol also stimulates the production of collagen by stimulating skin cells called fibroblasts to synthesize new collagen fibers, improving skin elasticity and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, “explains the king.
Is retinol still sure to use?
Pregnant and breastfeeding women should avoid retinol, explains Keller. And if you take medication, King first recommends checking with your doctor to avoid any medication interaction.
Although the retinol is not phototoxic, which means that it does not react directly with sunlight to harm your skin, it can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, especially in the first months of use, explains Kopelman. This is why dermatologists insist on sun protection. Seen advises “bearing a sunscreen with a SPF of 30 or more every day, and by making it reset when you are outside for more than 2 hours or after swimming or perspiration.”
For those who cannot tolerate retinol, bakuchiol – a compound derived from the plant – appeared as a softer option, explains King. In a study, the Bakuchiol cream twice a day worked as well as retinol once a day 0.5% to reduce wrinkles and pigmentation, but caused less scaling and drought.
Another alternative is skin care containing defensine. Defensins are peptides that stimulate dormant skin stem cells. According to a 2018 study, they offer many advantages of retinol without irritation, drought or increase in sun sensitivity associated with the use of retinols.
End
So, does retinol work? The strongest scientific proof to date concerns prescription retinoids such as Trétinoine, which constantly improves wrinkles and complexion. Over -the -counter retinol products have less robust data, but that does not mean that they are ineffective. Dermatologists agree that with coherent and appropriate use, retinol can help improve the complexion, texture and global clarity, although the effects are generally more subtle and progressive.
It is also important to remember that retinol is “just a piece of the puzzle”, explains Kopelman. “The most important results come from the combination with sun protection, a coherent skin care routine and realistic expectations.” Armed with this information, you can approach the allĂ©e de la Care de la Skin, more confidently.
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