Mature skin has no standard definition. There is no specific age that, once crossed, places you in this category. But dermatologists say your skin starts to change in your 40s, when problems like dryness, fine lines and wrinkles become more common.
“Oil and collagen production peak between ages 15 and 25, and then we ride that wave into our 40s,” says Heather Rogers, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Modern Dermatology in Seattle.
Production of the sex hormone estrogen typically begins to decline during perimenopause, the period about 8 to 10 years before menopause, which usually begins in your mid-40s. As a result, decreased sebum and collagen production leaves skin drier, more irritated, and more prone to developing fine lines and wrinkles.
Age is just a number, but if your skin is showing signs of aging that worry you, these dermatologist-recommended skin care tips can help.
1. Adjust your retinoid
Retinoids are a vitamin A derivative that may improve skin cell turnover and collagen production, decrease discoloration, and help smooth fine lines and wrinkles.Who exactly should use retinoids and when to start depends on your skin problems and medical history (for example, they cannot be used during pregnancy or while breastfeeding), so it is best to consult a dermatologist.
However, as skin matures and becomes drier, it may be more prone to irritation from retinoids. “Midlife is one of the first times people notice that skin care ingredients are irritating their skin. They may have been using a product for years but can’t tolerate it now,” says Dr. Rogers.
If this sounds like your experience, you don’t necessarily have to ditch retinoids. Rogers recommends making one of these changes to how you use them to increase tolerance:
Reduce frequency Use your retinoid every other day, instead of daily.
Reduce the amount If your dermatologist has already recommended applying a pea-sized amount to your skin, ask for a lower dose.
Move the product If you’re using a prescription retinoid, try a retinol (a less potent over-the-counter version) instead. If that’s still too much, you can consider using bakuchiol, a plant extract that can also boost collagen production but with less risk of side effects, suggests Rogers. A systematic review of 29 articles concluded that bakuchiol is an alternative to retinol with anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties, but noted that additional studies are warranted.
2. Try Skin Slugging
Dryness is a common problem for mature skin, due to the aforementioned reduction in sebum production.A tip for hydration? Try “slugging” or applying a thick cream or ointment as a second layer on top of your regular moisturizer before bed. “This will seal in hydration while you sleep,” says Rogers. Vaseline is a product that many people use to create this protective layer.
3. Spray on Midday SPF
One of the hallmarks of good skin care, regardless of your age, is using a broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning.
Dermatologists also recommend reapplying sunscreen every two hours if you’re outdoors or otherwise exposed to the sun (like driving a car).This isn’t always practical, especially if you’re wearing makeup. In this case, you have three options that both preserve your existing makeup and protect your skin, says Rogers:
Apply tinted sunscreen (and reapply if necessary).
Touch up with makeup containing sunscreen (like powder).
Spray sunscreen mist on your face (and reapply if necessary).
4. Reconsider washing your face in the morning if your skin is dry
But that doesn’t mean you should get out of bed and just go about your business. Rogers recommends splashing your face with warm water and gently blotting excess moisture with a towel. Starting with a clean — but not stripped — canvas allows the active ingredients in your morning skincare routine to be better absorbed into your skin, she explains.
If you use a cleanser, minimize dryness and irritation by washing your face with a gentle, non-irritating, fragrance-free product, says Jessica Garelik, DO, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. (You can identify one by the label, which will use words like “gentle,” “fragrance-free,” “for sensitive skin,” or “protective barrier.”) To make sure your cleanser is hydrating, look for products with ingredients that help lock in moisture, including lipids, ceramides, or humectants, Dr. Garelik recommends.
5. Switch up your vitamin C serum
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can absorb and neutralize skin-damaging free radicals. Additionally, vitamin C can also stimulate collagen to promote firmer, smoother skin, and inhibit melanin (skin pigment) production to decrease discoloration.
Rogers recommends applying a vitamin C serum to clean or freshly water-splashed skin in the morning. (You can start using these products as early as your 20s, although they can be beneficial at any age.)
Vitamin C is acidic and can cause irritation (especially for dry, mature skin that is more prone to irritation). Rogers therefore recommends looking for a formulation that contains THD ascorbate, a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (this will be noted on the label or in the product description). “THD is much better tolerated by mature skin,” she says. In fact, the THD version has a neutral pH, which is gentler on the skin.
6. Exercise regularly
Research suggests that regular exercise can increase blood flow to the skin, increase skin hydration, and improve skin structure, possibly by affecting hormone secretion, although more study is needed.
“Exercise promotes blood flow to the muscles and skin, especially body skin with sagging or cellulite,” says Rogers. For your overall health, aim for 30 minutes a day of moderate exercise most days of the week.
7. Use the right eye cream
Age-related discoloration, bags, and wrinkles are common problems around the eyes. Using an eye cream can be helpful in improving the appearance of the skin around your eyes, says Garelik, and it can be started at any age, starting in your 20s.
According to research, specific eye cream ingredients can help with the following issues:
For hyperpigmentation Niacinamide, caffeine, vitamin E and vitamin C
For pockets Caffeine
For wrinkles Caffeine, retinol, vitamin C, peptides, hyaluronic acid or niacinamide
Additionally, if you suffer from eye swelling, using cool compresses, sleeping with your head slightly elevated, and limiting high-sodium foods can all help depuff the eye area, says Garelik.
Certain medical conditions, such as allergies or thyroid disease, can also cause bags under the eyes, she adds. See a board-certified dermatologist for an evaluation, and they can help identify the cause and create a treatment plan specific to you.
8. Consider oral collagen
Collagen is a protein in the body that supports the structure of skin and connective tissues. Rogers recommends consulting your dermatologist about oral collagen, a supplement that may improve the appearance of aging skin. Some dermatologists specifically recommend hydrolyzed collagen, a form of oral collagen that is easy to digest and better absorbed.
Although studies are mixed and research is limited and evolving, a recent systematic review and meta-analysis in Taiwan of 26 randomized controlled trials involving 1,721 patients found that oral collagen supplementation significantly improved skin hydration and elasticity, compared to the placebo group. However, the researchers noted that further large-scale trials are needed to confirm these results.
“Oral collagen is not life-changing and studies suggest a slight improvement in fine lines around the eyes. It is well tolerated and easy to take. [for most healthy people]. I use it myself,” says Rogers.
Be sure to talk to your doctor before starting oral collagen — or any other supplement — as supplements are not regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and may interact with certain conditions and medications. One consideration when taking collagen is that it may contain toxins and heavy metals, given that it is typically made from animal parts. Always look for a supplement that has undergone third-party testing, which indicates its safety and purity.
9. Talk to your dermatologist about vitamin B3
As the Skin Cancer Foundation points out, 1 in 5 Americans will develop skin cancer by age 70.
Nicotinamide, a form of vitamin B3 also known as niacinamide, may discourage the development of skin cancer. A recent retrospective study of 33,822 veterans found that taking 500 milligrams (mg) of nicotinamide twice daily for more than 30 days was associated with a 14% reduction in skin cancer risk. When started after a first skin cancer diagnosis, it reduced the risk of a subsequent skin cancer by 54 percent. However, it is important to note that excessive amounts of nicotinamide (more than 3,000 mg per day) can cause liver damage. So talk to your doctor about the appropriate dosage and never take nicotinamide if you have a history of liver disease.
Rogers recommends asking your doctor or dermatologist about taking nicotinamide in combination with an antioxidant plant extract called Polypodium leucotomos. Although research is limited, emerging evidence suggests the effectiveness and safety of this extract in the treatment and prevention of several skin diseases, such as non-melanoma skin cancer, melanoma, pigmentation disorders and photosensitivity, notes an Italian review.
“It does not replace your sunscreen, but provides a supplement [sun-protection] benefits,” says Rogers. Remember, you should always talk to your doctor before starting any new supplement.
Takeaways
Mature skin has no official definition, but dermatologists describe it as skin that shows signs of aging, such as dryness, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines and wrinkles.
Some anti-aging skin care tips include not cleansing in the morning if your skin is dry; “slugging,” which means applying a second layer of thick cream or ointment over the first; and adjust the use of retinoids.
Certain supplements may improve skin health and even reduce the risk of skin cancer, such as nicotinamide (a form of vitamin B3). But be sure to talk to your dermatologist or primary care doctor before starting any new supplements, as they are not regulated by the FDA and may interact with certain medications and chronic conditions.
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